Pit Firing

1: Dig a Pit

  • You can either dig a pit directly into the ground, or build an artificial mound which is considered more stable rather than natural variations in the soil which can affect temperature retention.
  • The smaller the hole the better
  • Optional insulation at base and sides with cinder blocks, rocks, cement or clay

2: Stacking

  • On packed earthen base or alternative foundation as mentioned above, stack dried green ware
  • Consider the distribution of the coals as they fall
  • Do not have pieces touching, as this may encourage breakage

3: Fire Fuel

  • Fill the spaces under, around and on top of pieces with punk or kindling (wood shavings are ideal) this will make the firing more even
  • Build a fire over the top, so the coals can drop down into the pit. Continue until pottery is completely covered by coals.

4: Cooling

  • Cooling is where most breakages happen due to contraction
  • Can take 12 hours or so
  • Remove carefully once completely cool

screenshot-68.png

Notes and Alternatives:

  • Make sure the pieces are completely dry before firing, if they are cool against your cheek they may need more drying
  • Build the fire in the pit and build up embers before placing clay pieces over top on a rack, some suggest building up and burning down this internal fire three times to heat the walls
  • Wood shavings should be damp, so they smoke and slowly increase in heat rather than burning rapidly, should smoke for a few hours
  • Let cool overnight, remove coals above, allow to continue cooling till clay is cold
  • Excavate SLOWLY
  • Unless glazed in some way these pieces will not be water tight (Bisque only) as with traditional kiln firing
  • Need to read further to see if a second salt firing or slip may make bisque ware fireproof

Notes from Native American art ceramicists Cher Shaffer

 

Collecting Natural Clay

Clay Bodies and Minerals

Several materials are referred to as clay. General properties for the classification of clay may include plasticity, staining of the hands, absorption of water before or after firing, shrinkage or reduction as water is removed and the reaction to heat. Each different clay is composed of different amounts of minerals which determines the characteristics of the resulting pottery. Raw material differs regionally, and mixing clay bodies from different areas is common to create a mixed matrix. 

  • Kanolin: Originating in China, used for porcelain production. Also referred to as china clay.
  • Ball Clay: Extremely plastic, fine grained sediment clay. Small amounts may be added to Kanolin to increase plasticity.
  • Fire Clay: Slightly lower fluxes than kanolin. Increased firing temperature. May be added to other clays for stoneware type bodies.
  • Stone Ware Clay: Between fire and ball clay. Fine grain yet fire resistant.
  • Common Red Clay/ Shale Clay: The pigment of this clay comes from ferric oxide impurities. good for bricks. Not typically used for clay, except for certain deposits.
  • Bentonite: Extremely plastic, can be added to short clay to increase plasticity.

More than one clay body is often the recommendation, for throwing clay must:

  • Highly plastic and flexible
  • low absorbance
  • strong (coarser particles ie fire clay, grog* or temper)
  • Ball clay generally meets these stipulations

*Grog or temper is usually clay that has been fired then ground up and added to fresh clay, however the term also extends to anything which adds ‘grit’ or larger particles to the clay body ie sand, or paper in the case of Kanolin. General rule of thumb for grog to clay is 8% – 10% of clay body.

Collecting and Processing

Locate:

  • Commercial clay is mined from high grade sources
  • Working with machinery allows me to reach similar natural clay bed depths, which is a purer deposit than that on the surface of mud banks
  • To test clay composition take a wet sample and roll it into a sausage, bend the roll into a ‘C’. If it stains your fingers and cracks it is silt, if it is buttery and can form a ‘C’ it is clay

Wet Process:

To remove foreign materials, which can cause cracking or explosion due to variants in firing temperature and cavities caused by organics.  

  • Mix clay and water in bucket until completely dispersed and thin slurry
  • Pour your slurry through a sieve or cloth
  • Let sit for a day or two. The clay will settle and allow you to pour off access water
  • You can now allow the rest of the water to evaporate off or you can strain the water through a bed sheet or something fine enough to keep the clay out.
  • Dry processing is also an option but much less successful 

Temper and Clay Bodies:

  • Use sand, crushed shell, or old ceramics to lower the rate of expansion and reduce cracking
  • Distribute temper evenly through dried clay, 10% temper = clay volume
  • Make clay disks like pancakes and sprinkle temper between the ‘pancake stack’ 
  • Kneed and wedge this pancake stack, this is your clay body

 

 

 

Dark Age Ceramics of the Hebrides Pt. 2

Chapter 2

Continuation of the Udal excavations lead by Ian Crawford (1963-1976 and 1978-1982). The Udal site contains superimposed settlements from the Iron Age to the Post Medieval period. The site boasts over ten meters of diagnostic stratigraphy with hand made pottery found at all levels, excavation revealed 150,000 pottery shards, which due to low funding was recorded by a single person.

SUN4MONexcavations-Read-Only-810x564

Archaeologists at work in Udal, 1981

 

1st Strat of Occupation – Iron Age

  • Decorative “Wheelhouse” pottery sherds
  • Very similar to a’Cheardach Mhor and Kilpheder
  • Decorative fillets, incised, applique etc

2nd Strat of Occupation – Dark Ages

  • Cellular homes, slab lined central hearths
  • 2 meters of deposit
  • Decorative bone pins, combs, clay moulds and crucibles
  • Unusually rich in pottery
  • Carbon dating suggests 336 CE – 590 CE
  • Dark age ended by Viking raids and settlement 598 CE – 815 CE

3rd Strat of Occupation – Viking Age

  • Strat levels X, IXc, IXb
  • Stone buildings, rectangle forms. Slab lined central hearth.
  • Final level (IXb) is a dense burn layer, suggesting the destruction of settlement.
  • 50+ bone combs, large crucibles, and a change in pottery
  • Viking arrival is sudden, possibly violent, mid 9th C
  • Level IXc is densely occupied Norse phase,
  • Clay platters

4th Strat of Occupation – Medieval

  • Complete rebuild, new house style post IXb destruction
  • Continuation of hand made pottery

 

Kiln Firing

Why fire twice?

Bisque is the result of the 1st firing, bisque work has more strength yet is still porous and absorbent

Glaze is added to bisque ware for the second firing, which seals the vessel making it water tight

 

How hot does it get?

Heat is measured in cones

  • Bisque is usually cone 05 – 1031 °C
  • Glaze is usually cone 06 – 997.7 °C

* not to be confused with cone 5.5 (1186 °C) or cone 6 (1222 °C)

Cone 101286 oCWhite HotStoneware Glazes
Cone 61222 oCWhite HotPorcelain
Cone 0.5-0.61010 oCYellow HotLow Fire
Cone 0.17737.7 oCRed HotGlass