1: Dig a Pit
- You can either dig a pit directly into the ground, or build an artificial mound which is considered more stable rather than natural variations in the soil which can affect temperature retention.
- The smaller the hole the better
- Optional insulation at base and sides with cinder blocks, rocks, cement or clay
2: Stacking
- On packed earthen base or alternative foundation as mentioned above, stack dried green ware
- Consider the distribution of the coals as they fall
- Do not have pieces touching, as this may encourage breakage
3: Fire Fuel
- Fill the spaces under, around and on top of pieces with punk or kindling (wood shavings are ideal) this will make the firing more even
- Build a fire over the top, so the coals can drop down into the pit. Continue until pottery is completely covered by coals.
4: Cooling
- Cooling is where most breakages happen due to contraction
- Can take 12 hours or so
- Remove carefully once completely cool

Notes and Alternatives:
- Make sure the pieces are completely dry before firing, if they are cool against your cheek they may need more drying
- Build the fire in the pit and build up embers before placing clay pieces over top on a rack, some suggest building up and burning down this internal fire three times to heat the walls
- Wood shavings should be damp, so they smoke and slowly increase in heat rather than burning rapidly, should smoke for a few hours
- Let cool overnight, remove coals above, allow to continue cooling till clay is cold
- Excavate SLOWLY
- Unless glazed in some way these pieces will not be water tight (Bisque only) as with traditional kiln firing
- Need to read further to see if a second salt firing or slip may make bisque ware fireproof
Notes from Native American art ceramicists Cher Shaffer
